By GRETCHEN McKAY

Pittsburgh Post-Gazette (TNS)

I’m usually a Southern biscuit kind of girl, especially when they’re made with buttermilk. But I would never say no to a really good muffin — be it savory or sweet — since they’re the perfect graband- go bite when you’re in a hurry.

They’re easy to eat out of hand, can be made in large quantities and most don’t require a lot of technical skill. You just have to be able to measure, mix, portion and bake.

Both kid- and cook-friendly, these tender, savory muffins can be stirred together in a cinch with ingredients you probably already have in your refrigerator. They can be eaten hot out of the oven or at room temperature, and can be frozen in freezer bags for up to 2 months — just microwave until thawed and warm.

This recipe is as versatile as it is satisfying. If you don’t like Gruyere (a hard, nutty Swiss cheese), use sharp or mild cheddar or another semi-hard cheese like cantal. You also could swap out the ham for bacon or even make the muffins completely vegetarian by adding chopped bell pepper instead. While they’re probably considered breakfast food, muffins can also can make a decent light lunch served with soup and salad. I tried them several different ways — slathered with butter, drizzled with a little hot honey and stuffed with a fried egg to make a hearty breakfast sandwich. It’s tough to say which was best since they all went down easy.

Don’t have buttermilk? It’s easy to make at home. Simply pour 1 tablespoon vinegar or lemon juice into a measuring cup, then fill the cup with regular milk. Stir to combine, and let the mixture rest for at least 5 minutes before using.

HAM, CHEESE AND CHIVE MUFFINS

■ 2 cups all-purpose

flour

■ 1 tablespoon sugar

■ 2 1/2 teaspoons baking powder

■ 1 teaspoon garlic

powder

■ 1/2 teaspoon baking

soda

■ 1/4 teaspoon salt

■ 1/4 teaspoon smoked paprika

■ 1 cup buttermilk

■ 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

■ 1 large egg, lightly

beaten

■ 1 tablespoon Dijon

mustard

■ 1 1/2 cup grated or shredded Gruyere cheese

■ 1 cup chopped ham

■ 1/4 cup finely chopped chives, or 1 scallion, white and green parts, chopped Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Line 18 standard muffin/cupcake cups or one 6-cup jumbo muffin tin with paper liners.

In medium bowl, whisk together flour, sugar, baking powder, garlic powder, baking soda, salt and smoked paprika.

In a separate bowl, whisk together buttermilk, melted butter, egg and mustard. Make a well in the center of the dry ingredients, pour in the wet ingredients and stir just until barely combined — it should be a little lumpy.

Add grated or shredded cheese, chopped ham and chives, and fold them in. Do not overmix!

Divide the batter evenly in a cupcake pan. (I had to do two batches.)

Bake until they’re golden and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, about 25 minutes for standard muffins or 30 minutes for jumbo muffins.

Let cool in pan for 5 minutes, and remove from cupcake pan.

McKay/Pittsburgh Post-Gazette/TNS