When it comes to skin care, less may be more.
Less as in fewer steps and fewer dollars spent, and more as in more focus on the very important steps we should be taking.
There is no doubt that caring for our skin is essential. But the recent trend of using expensive skin care products in an exhaustive multi-step routine — often filmed and posted on social media — is blurring the line between what is necessary, what isn’t, and what may be harming rather than helping.
“Skin health is very important,” says Dr. Julie Karen, a board-certified dermatologist. “That includes sun protection first and foremost.”
Karen is aware of the lengthy and at times needless routines that are drawing attention online, or as she puts it, “devoured and consumed,” particularly by teen and tween girls.
“It’s marketing,” she says. “It’s all over their social media. It’s appealing. It’s aspirational.”
It might also be harmful.
In some cases, products being used are harming rather than helping skin. Karen shares one instance in which a mechanical exfoliator caused “red, inflamed and burning skin” for a young girl.
“What I really wish young people would do is stick to the basics,” she says, stressing treatments like peptides and retinols are not needed at a young age, unless under the care of a doctor.
Sunscreen first
So what is essential?
First is sunscreen, for everyone, year-round. Sunscreen should be 30 SPF or higher and provide broad spectrum protection. It should be applied liberally and reapplied every two hours or after swimming or sweating.
For adolescents, a gentle cleanser can be used. If acne is a concern, that may be addressed as well, gently. A serum containing antioxidants can be used if desired, Karen says, as it provides elements that help to “self-heal and self-repair.” A moisturizer also can help to hydrate skin.
“What we really want to educate them on is, preserve what you have,” Karen says, adding that she hopes a “tipping point” is reached and the appeal of very expensive unnecessary skin care wains.
For adults, additional steps may be considered when caring for skin. But again, it starts with sunscreen.
“Ninety percent of visible change we attribute to aging is caused by the sun,” she says.
A moisturizer, with hyaluronic acid if desired, should be used, but specifics depend on the individual.
“It’s really about finding a product that you’re going to use,” Karen says.
Antioxidants — including vitamins C and E, as well as green tea — can also be used in a variety of forms.
“What they all share in common is they neutralize free radicals,” Karen explains.
From there, other skin care treatments, such as retinols and retinoids, may be used to repair damage. Some are prescription-based, while others are available widely. They can make skin more sensitive, including to the sun, so that should be kept in mind when using. More complex — and expensive — treatments also are available to repair damaged skin.
Get checked
Adults should also have annual skin checks with a dermatologist, beginning at least at age 18 or earlier depending on family history. In addition to an annual skin check, anything new or unusual should also be checked.
Skin cancer is the most common cancer in the United States, according to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention. But when caught early, even the deadliest form — melanoma — is treatable, Karen says.
“Every single day in my practice, I will identify a skin cancer,” she says.
